hoop house part 5: framing endwalls

after putting up the bows, hip boards, and wind bracing it’s pretty easy to feel like you are close to done.  sorry to break it to you, but framing the end walls usually goes pretty slow.  it’s not hard though, its just really a matter of being good with a saw and using a level.

for this part you are gonna need – a skil saw, tape measure, screws, impact driver, level, screws, and plenty of 2×4’s.

i’m not gonna tell you how you should frame your end walls as it’s up to you – but i wouldn’t put less than four of what would be called studs when framing walls even in a small house like ours.  the wider the house the more studs.  these are attached to the bows with what are called brace bands that go around the bows and are connected with a carriage bolt with an end wall bracket that connects to the top of the two by fours.  the band braces you should be able to find at any place that sells supplies for chain link fencing (locally are plenty of places to go, but my favorite is federal pipe and supply absolutely one of my favorite places to shop in detroit ) – the end wall brackets are kind of hard to find you are best off going to a greenhouse supplier like rimol.bowbrace

it’s best to start with a sketch on paper of how you wanna lay everything out – focusing on where the doors and vents will go.  i like to put a vent at the top of the end wall – and as big as you feel will work – just try not to undersize – i put in a 3×3 foot size vent, which is pretty big for such a small house, but i really like venting as much from the top as possible before having to open the side vents.  doors you have to figure out what you are gonna install – make yr own doors or install a standard door.  using a standard door is much easier – but does limit what you can do.  i prefer to make my own doors so i can make them dutch style and use the top part to vent.  no matter what, as you think about the size of door you want to use, my biggest consideration is if a wheelbarrow will fit though the door.  if it doesn’t – get a wider door.

once you have figured how you want to lay everything out, start by framing in the studs.  figure out where you are gonna lay out yr studs – i laid them out at 9 inches from the end bow, and at 43 inches from the end bow and then one on the center (you can tell better in the finaly picture of the framing).  dig holes where they are gonna be – as you want the studs to go into the ground at least 6 inches, more if you feel like digging holes, as this helps to secure the bottom

don’t hurry those studs, spend plenty of time making sure they are the proper width apart and level in both directions.  tighten down the band braces, once they are properly in place and you done with the studs.

congratulations, this is the slowest and most frustrating section of framing.  next i frame in the opening for the door and screw in some pieces between the studs.  what are these called?  i’m not really sure.  then frame in the vent opening.  make sure when doing all this that each piece is level.

our vent hole is three feet by three feet, and you want some extra space on all sides so it can easily turn, i plan on a 1/8 of an inch on each side – so you want to make the vent 35 and 3/4″ in both direction.

vent

to install the vent, set it in the vent hole, use a few shims to make sure that it is raised up an 1/8 about the bottom of the hole and drill holes half way up the framing though the framing and the vent.  then thread a steel rod though both sides.  this should be enough to secure it and make it useful.

door can be made from 2×4’s and just like the vent make sure to shim it up when framing so it swings freely and leave 1/8inch gaps on either side.

here is an image of the finished framing.  endwallnext up pulling the plastic!

 

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